Disconnect power and let the cabinet cool before touching internal parts. Work only on the drum support system: rear ball-and-socket or shaft, front bearing or slide pads, felt seals, and the belt path. Do not modify branch circuits, receptacles, or concealed ducting. If wiring shows heat discolouration, if the terminal block is damaged, or if you smell gas on a gas model, stop and book a licensed professional.
Symptoms And First Checks
Bearing wear reveals itself through a scrape that changes with drum speed, a dull thump once per revolution, or fine plastic or fibre dust inside the cabinet. Rule out simple causes first. Remove the lint screen, clear the cavity, and check the vent outlet for steady airflow. Rotate the empty drum by hand from the door opening. Smooth motion with a repeating squeak points to slides or a dry front bearing. A heavy spot that stalls under your hand suggests a seized rear bearing or flat-spotted support roller on designs that combine both systems. Inspect the felt seals around the drum edges; a torn seal lets the drum seam rub the bulkhead and can mimic bearing noise. If the cabinet is unusually hot, restore airflow before dismantling.
Normal Vs. Not: Wear Thresholds
Use practical, measurement-based thresholds to decide whether parts are serviceable, then confirm against the service manual for your model.
A rear ball-and-socket bearing should hold the drum true with minimal end play. Visible drum drop at the front lip beyond roughly two to three millimetres during a gentle lift test indicates the rear seat is worn. A steel ball that shows flatting you can feel with a fingernail, typically approaching half a millimetre or more, is past service limits. In sleeve-shaft designs, a polished track is normal; deep scoring or oval wear that lets the shaft rock is not.
Front bearings that use slide pads start around three to four millimetres thick. If any pad has worn close to the backing or has ridges that catch the drum lip, replace the full set so contact height remains even. Drum felt should present a continuous, lightly compressed ring. Gaps wider than about two millimetres, loose fibres that snag the seam, or shiny scuffing on the bulkhead are signs to renew the seal. The belt should track centrally without frayed edges; glazing and rubber dust point to misalignment that will return after a bearing swap unless corrected.
Replacement Workflow
Work methodically and document each step with photos so reassembly matches the original routing and fastener locations. The goal is precise access, clean transfer of parts, and alignment that prevents repeat wear.
Access And Disassembly
Unplug the dryer and pull it forward for light. Remove the top and front as your service manual shows. Release belt tension at the idler and slip the belt off the motor pulley. Lift the drum slightly and slide it forward just enough to clear the rear bearing seat. Support the drum on a padded surface to protect the rim. If your model mounts the rear bearing to a bracket on the bulkhead, note spacer order and screw length; mixing fasteners can distort the seat on reassembly.
Remove And Transfer Parts
On ball-and-socket systems, remove the rear socket from the bulkhead and the mating ball or stud from the drum. Inspect the bracket for cracks and the mounting holes for elongation. Transfer any insulating shims or washers in the same order. For sleeve-shaft designs, withdraw the shaft and check the bushing for oval wear; replace the bushing, shaft, and felt as a set if play is evident. At the front, remove worn slide pads as a complete set and clean the bearing channel. Avoid solvents that soften plastics; use a mild cleaner and allow it to dry fully.
Install And Align
Seat the new rear bearing square against the bulkhead and tighten fasteners evenly so the bracket does not twist. Mount the mating ball or shaft to the drum at the specified torque from the manual. Refit the drum onto the rear seat and centre it in the opening. Install new front slides or bearing ring so contact height is even at all positions. Route the belt over the drum with the ribbed side on the drum where applicable, then over the idler and motor pulley exactly as photographed. Align pulley faces by eye; misalignment produces a high-pitched chirp and edge wear. Spin the drum by hand. It should complete several smooth revolutions, with no rubbing or scraping.
Reassembly And Set-Up
Vacuum lint from the blower inlet and heater tunnel while the cabinet is open. Reinstall panels in reverse order and secure every harness clip; loose wiring buzzes against metal at speed. Push the dryer back without crushing the duct. Confirm the door switch connector is seated to avoid a false “dead” condition on the first test.
Proving The Fix
Proving The Fix
Run a timed cycle with no load. The drum should reach speed immediately with a steady hum and a soft whoosh of air, free of scrape, grind, or thump. Step to the outlet and check for a strong, even stream; weak flow raises temperature and accelerates wear on the new parts. Add two damp towels and listen through a full minute. Any repeating thump suggests residual flat on a support roller if your design uses both rollers and a rear bearing; a brief, fading chirp may come from a belt settling into alignment. If the front lip still rubs, re-check slide height and felt seating.
Use simple pass/fail cues. End play felt at the door should be slight and not visible as a drop. The front rim should run concentric without wobble. Fine dust inside the cabinet after the test points to ongoing rub and requires adjustment. Stop DIY and call a professional if breakers trip, if the drum refuses to start, if you smell burning insulation, or if wiring or connectors heat rapidly during the test.
FAQ
How do I tell rear bearing wear from front slide wear?
Lift the front lip gently. Excess drop with scuffing at the rear seat indicates rear wear; a harsh scrape at the opening and dust around the front ring points to slides.
Do I replace slides one at a time or as a full set?
Replace the entire set. Mixing new and worn pads tilts the drum and accelerates wear on the fresh parts.
What clearance at the felt seal is acceptable?
A continuous, lightly compressed contact is normal. Visible gaps around two millimetres or scuff marks on the bulkhead are signs to renew the seal.
Can I lubricate the rear bearing to quiet it?
No. Most designs use self-lubricating materials or require dry contact. Oil attracts lint, overheats, and fails quickly. Replace worn components.
Why does noise return after a bearing swap?
Common causes are poor belt alignment, weak airflow that overheats felt and slides, or reuse of flattened rollers on combo systems. Correct each contributor during the same service.
Sources
- Manufacturer Service Manual — Model-Specific. Exploded views, bearing types, torque values, belt routing, and adjustment procedures for your exact dryer.
- International Electrotechnical Commission — IEC 60335 Series, Household And Similar Electrical Appliances — Safety. Safety framework for servicing user-accessible components.
- UL 2158 — Electric Clothes Dryers. Performance and safety requirements relevant to drum support systems, airflow, and thermal protection.
- National Fire Protection Association — NFPA 70, National Electrical Code. Installation and safety requirements governing branch circuits and receptacles that supply dryers.
