If the oven does not heat up even though it is well supplied with electricity, it will be necessary to test the various components and understand the symptoms. The tests differ depending on the failure you encounter:
If your oven does not heat up in just one of the cooking modes, you will need to test the operation and the power supply of the resistance corresponding to this cooking mode:
- the convection resistance of the oven
- the grill resistance / oven vault
- the bottom resistance / called “sole resistance”.
If your oven does not heat up in any of the selected cooking modes, you will need to test other elements:
- Check power
- Check the door lock
- Test the thermal safeties
- Test the control thermostat
- Examine the switch
- Test the temperature probe
There’s nothing quite as frustrating as being ready to bake or roast only to find that your oven isn’t heating up. Whether you’re an amateur baker or a seasoned home cook, a non-heating oven can bring your culinary plans to an abrupt halt. This article seeks to demystify the reasons behind this common kitchen conundrum and suggests possible solutions.
Understanding the Problem
When we say ‘oven not heating,’ we refer to instances where the oven either doesn’t heat at all or doesn’t reach the temperature you’ve set. The symptoms might vary between gas and electric ovens due to their distinct heating mechanisms.
Possible Causes and Solutions
1. Failed Heating Element (Electric Oven)
Electric ovens use heating elements to generate heat. If these elements fail, it could result in an oven that doesn’t heat up.
Solution: Visually inspect the heating elements. They should glow red when the oven is turned on. If they’re not glowing or show visible signs of damage, a replacement is in order. This task should be carried out by a professional to ensure safety and proper installation.
2. Faulty Igniter (Gas Oven)
In a gas oven, the igniter draws electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it. When the igniter weakens, it fails to open the valve correctly, leading to an under-heated or non-heating oven.
Solution: If the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without igniting the gas flame, it indicates that the igniter is too weak to open the valve. In this case, the igniter should be replaced by a professional.
3. Malfunctioning Thermostat
The oven thermostat controls the temperature in the oven. If it’s not working correctly, it could result in the oven not heating to the correct temperature.
Solution: Test the thermostat by setting your oven to a specific temperature and using an oven thermometer to verify the accuracy. If there is a significant difference, you may need to adjust, recalibrate, or replace the thermostat.
4. Broken Temperature Sensor
The temperature sensor works with the thermostat to regulate the oven’s temperature. If it’s not functioning correctly, it can prevent the oven from heating properly.
Solution: Check the resistance of the temperature sensor using a multimeter. If it doesn’t provide the correct reading at room temperature, it needs to be replaced.
5. Tripped Circuit Breaker or Blown Fuse
If your oven isn’t heating at all, it could be due to a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse.
Solution: Check your electrical panel and reset the breaker or replace the fuse if necessary. If this problem recurs frequently, consult a professional electrician as there could be an underlying electrical issue.
CHECK RESISTOR POWER SUPPLY
To check if the resistors are powered by electricity:
- Turn off the oven and reconnect the resistors.
- Plug the oven back in: this test is therefore carried out with the power on, so it is important to use protective gloves and avoid touching the metal parts.
- Set the multimeter to a rating higher than 240 volts, typically 600 volts AC.
- Start cooking on the setting that matches the resistance you want to test.
- Then place the two multimeter test leads directly on the resistor tips.
- Repeat this operation with all cooking modes to check if the resistances are well provided.
The value found should be between 220 and 240 volts. If the resistor is not energized, check the switch.
CHECK THE OVEN DOOR
The door may be causing an oven problem. Make sure that the door of your device is securely closed and not blocking anything, otherwise the program will not start.
- The hobs and grates must be positioned correctly so as not to interfere with the closing of the door. If they are in poor condition or deformed, they must be replaced.
- If dirt is stuck in the hinges or on the gasket, clean it with a damp sponge or cloth soaked in vinegar.
CHECK THERMAL SAFETY OF THE OVEN
Some models of ovens may be equipped with a thermal protection device, which is activated in case of abnormal overheating. These fasteners, as a rule, are located on top and are attached to the body of the furnace, they can have a different shape.
Unplug the oven, remove the back and top panels, and disconnect the thermal protection connectors.
Set the multimeter to the continuity function or the smallest resistance range.
Connect the multimeter leads to the two thermal protection pins: you should read a non-zero numerical value close to zero. If your multimeter does not beep or displays 1 or OL, it means the thermal has sheared and therefore needs to be replaced.
CHECK THERMAL SAFETY OF THE OVEN
Some models of ovens may be equipped with a thermal protection device, which is activated in case of abnormal overheating. These fasteners, as a rule, are located on top and are attached to the body of the furnace, they can have a different shape.
- Unplug the oven, remove the back and top panels, and disconnect the thermal protection connectors.
- Set the multimeter to the continuity function or the smallest resistance range.
- Connect the multimeter leads to the two thermal protection pins: you should read a non-zero numerical value close to zero. If your multimeter does not beep or displays 1 or OL, it means the thermal has sheared and therefore needs to be replaced.
CHECK OVEN TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The temperature in your oven is controlled by a temperature sensor: its ohmic resistance changes with the temperature. This value is transmitted to an electronic board that regulates the power supply to the resistors in order to obtain the correct temperature in the oven body. It is possible that the temperature sensor is giving incorrect information to the electronic board.
This probe is inserted into the back of the oven, usually at the top. It is often seen inside a case: it is a metal rod connected to two thin electrical wires, which are themselves connected to an electronic board.
If the sensor value is specific to each make and model, it can be checked in a simple way:
- Disassemble the back and top of the oven to find the temperature sensor. You can also find it from inside the oven: look for a rod sticking out of the back wall.
- Remove the probe from the back of the housing and disconnect it from the electronic board.
- Select a 200 kΩ gauge in ohmmeter mode, then place test leads on each probe terminal. If you find “OL”, “1” or 0, then the sensor is faulty.
- Then fill the glass with very hot or very cold water. Dip the probe into the glass and see if the ohmic value changes. If the value does not change, the sensor is faulty.
In conclusion, a non-heating oven can be the result of several issues, ranging from failed heating elements or igniters to faulty thermostats or temperature sensors. By understanding these potential causes, you can identify the most likely reason for your cold oven and take the necessary steps to fix it. Always remember that when it comes to repairs involving gas or electricity, it’s best to enlist the help of a professional to ensure safety and proper repair. With the right approach, you can get your oven back in working order and your culinary plans back on track.